Your St Barts -Villa Rental in St Barths, Saint Barthélémy

Here on St Barts Island, we have a race that occurs every year, much like the Americans with their Boston and New York City Marathons, except not nearly as long. Our 10k Gustavialoppet takes place in November and celebrates the island's Franco-Swedish friendship (thus the name).  Both residents of St Barts and those of Swedish residence take part in this race every year.

The overall winner of this year's race was familiar with the spotlight, as he's won the race the two years prior to this; Eddy Romil of Guadeloupe crossed the finish line in just 34 minutes and 45 seconds, just two minutes ahead of the second place runner, Myriam Benchabane of Saint Barth.

This race is not for the faint of heart and those who run it, train extensively beforehand. The terrain is hilly and the island is hot, which is why the race begins at 7:30 in the morning.  I am never on the island for the race, but I hear it is quite an event.

St Barts Island :: Runners at the starting line of Gustavialoppet :: courtesy of corossol.info

A word to those of you who visit the island and like to have a daily run; you should only do so during the early morning hours.  As I've said, the air is warm here and the terrain of the island is hilly. In addition, there is far too much traffic on the winding and hilly roads to running safely on the the side.

St Barts Island :: Gustavialoppet Runners :: Photo courtesy of corossal.info

We've talked a lot about the beaches of St Barts; but this St Barts Beach, the Beach of Public, is a little different.

All day long, especially during the high season, cars make the trek down the down the hill above the St Jean airport strip, called La Tourmente, to make it in to our capital city, Gustavia.  Between St Jean and Gustavia, cars have to cross a part of the island known to us locals as "Public."  This is where the Beach of Public is located.

When you think of a vacation on St Barts, you don't typically think of the area of Public, as it's not publicized in any travel brochure; it is the industrial section of St Barts.  Yes, I know, it's hard to imagine that an island this small has space for a large industrial section, but without this part of the island, there's no way we could survive.  Public is where the power plant, the wholesalers, the water plant, and the garbage and waste collector are located. Not really the image of St Barts you want to retain, but really, most towns have some area of their city that is dedicated to this.

Further down from the main drag, Public has also kept a little more of a local feel to it, and so visitors often make the trek to check this part of the island out.  Here you will find a local cemetery with historic tombstones, Maya's To Go serving its famous creole dishes, and a very small beach.  Well, maybe not a beach so much, more like a with a combination of sand and pebbles; it is often times used as a launching pad for small fishing boats. 

My advice would be this: if you area looking for somewhere to swim, check out one of the other amazing beaches that grace this island.  You have plenty to choose from, so why bother trying to find a good place to lay a towel on Public Beach?  Scope it out from the water, perhaps when you're sailing from Gustavia to Colombier, or go there at night, but to enjoy the food at Maya's…….speaking of which, my mouth is watering at the moment, just thinking about their creations.  I can't believe I dared write about her creole-thai-fusion cuisine as I'm starving to death on a train that is supposed to be high-speed; argh, French technology and service…..don't even get me started!!

St Barts Restaurant :: Café Victoire Waiter

OK, before I even give you a review of this St Barts restaurant, I want to be very upfront and tell you that I have a very biased opinion when it comes to Café Victoire.  The waiter is a St Barts gym buddy, so I can only say good things about the restaurant.  Although, on the flip side, I could shed a darker light on it; out of sheer jealousy of course. I find it completely unfair that he is able to serve this amazing food for lunch and dinner day-in and day-out, yet he still has the most enviable six-pack…..absolutely sickening….lol…..I'll just take a little more of that decadent warm chocolate cake please….and thank you very much!

When you first approach Victoire, you will notice that there are two sides; one retail, the other food.  The retail side is the fashion boutique which is part of the chic Parisian retail chain by the same name - so chic in fact, Nicolas Sarkozy, the President of France, wears a suit bought at Victoire in his official inauguration picture.  The other side holds Le Café Victoire, which is really more of a restaurant than a café.

What I love to do is this: spend a few hours shopping in downtown Gustavia and when all those orange Hermès bags I'm carrying get to be too heavy, I head on over there to get a bit to eat.  It is definitely sort of a French tapas place -you get small dishes of fresh, tasty, and light food, presented in the most beautiful way.  If there are two of you dining, I would suggest taking the three courses and sharing the feast.

Although Victoire also serves dinner and is a great option for a simple, tasty dinner in Gustavia, I prefer to use them as a deluxe take-out joint in the evening.  What better way to finish off a fine day than to sit in the comfort of your villa and share this yummy food with a loved one?  As an added bonus, it's a cheaper alternative to Maya's To Go.

Hopefully, my bias didn't shine thru too very much here. I promise you, if you go over to have a bite to eat at Café Victoire, you will be a die hard fan too.  Enjoy your meal!

While you're visiting Gustavia, make a stop at this Anglican Church. A peaceful sight, it is named St. Bartholomew's, and it's perched quaintly on the harbor; it's doors always wide open and welcoming.

The Anglican Church holds its Family Eucharist on Sunday mornings at 9am with a midweek Mass at 12:30pm; there is also a Spirituality Group that meets, midweek, at 11:30am.  The services are conducted in English and everyone is welcome,                 Gustavia :: St Bartholomew's Anglican Church           regardless of your practicing denomination.

So while you're visiting us, don't hesitate to stop by.  Vacations, often meant to relax us, can sometimes be so hectic that a break is nice now and again; even if only for a few moments of peaceful meditayion. Step inside and bow your head for a moment; clear your mind.

Close your eyes and listen to not only the Mass, but take in the sounds of the local choir.  Voices of angels if I do say so myself; you will carry their sound with you for days after.  And if you look closely,  you'll likely recognize some of the local women from you're shopping adventures.  Never again will you be able to go to Jojo's and look at the women running the register in the same way…..I guarantee it!

Everyone knows that Gustavia has the best places to shop, but during the low season, from noon to 4pm, the shop owners close down - they need a little break too!

St Barts lovers know that Gustavia is just like Madison Avenue, with its Cavalli, Cartier, Hermes, Vuitton and Dior boutiques. But they also know that during the "low season," which is outside of winter months, shops close down to re-open sometime between 4pm & 7pm.

Gustavia :: Shopping :: Photo Courtesy of Voyager St. Barths

I feel so bad whenever I see people who have taken the ferry to enjoy a day in St Barts and they are stuck in tiny Gustavia, without a car, and without shops to visit. Let's face it, afer looking at the port for an hour, there's not much else to do. Shopping is the real alternative, but you need the shops to be open!

Personally, my favorite time to go in to the shops is between 6 & 7 during the low season. It's usually quiet and the only shoppers are me and one other customer; it gives me plenty of time to chat with the salesperson. If you're visiting St Barts during the low season, plan your trip to Gustavia during a time of day when you can get the most from your experience!

Le Select is a gem in Gustavia that became famous without intending to do so.  A bar that is loved by both sailors and tourists alike, this is the place that St Barts villa owner Jimmy Buffet sings about in his ever popular song, "Cheeseburger in Paradise."  From the outside, it doesn't look like it has much appeal; however, saunter in a steamy evening when the sailors are in town for a boatload of fun (no pun intended!)

Holding the title of the oldest bar in town, it sits at the center of town, and is one of the few places in Gustavia that you do not need to make reservations.  Grab a burger and a beer and seat yourself.  Because of its location and its laid-back atmosphere, this is one of my favorite places to sit and people watch; by the way, between you and me, the Marius Special (double bacon cheeseburger) is delicious!

As the darkness falls, this bar usually rocks out with live music and many tend to gravitate here just to relax and socialize.  A lot of fun, Le Select is a Gustavia gem that shouldn't be missed!

St Barts Hotel :: Le Toiny ~ Arial View

Although the island of St Barts is small, this St Barts hotel seems to have found 38 acres of complete and total seclusion.  The Le Toiny offers 15 villa suites, each with its their own private pool and Plantation style furnishings.  The decor is such that is blends wonderfully with its natural surroundings, making the guests feel right at home. Teak chaise lounges with thick, comfy cushions sit upon beautiful hardwood floors; fall into your giant four-poster mahogany bed covered in crisp Frette linens. 

Le Toiny is located in the Toiny area of the island, and sets among only a handful of local houses.  Perched on the slope of Morne Vitet, it overlooks a beautiful cove of the Caribbean and is where "French savoir-faire meets West Indies casual, in a perfect blending of uncomplicated relaxation."

Here is a great video that showcases the beautiful Le Toiny:

                   St Barts Hotel :: Dining at Le Toiny

I often visit the Le Toiny for the Sunday brunch because it's the best on the island. The managers are very nice, service is traditional French style, yet not stiff.  If you decide to lunch there, make sure to sit by the blue pool in the shape of a crescent.  Le Toiny is part of the Relais & Châteaux, a posh French Association of Chic Independent Hotels.

Everyone should experience the Le Toiny, even if it is just once.  The luxury and service you will experience will be like nothing you could ever imagine.  Come experience St Barts at its finest; experience it the Le Toiny way.

Shell Beach is one St Barts beach that you don't want to miss.  Touting the recognition as the only beach"in town," it is within walking distance of Gustavia but is very rarely crowded. Originally getting its name from the shells that used to be all over the beach, the changing times have taken their toll on the beach and most of the hurricanes have washed the shells away.  However, it doesn't mean that this is not a beautiful bay on which to spend the day.

With flat, tranquil water, the swimming is fantastic and if you're really adventurous, there is a cliff on one side of the beach from which you can dive.  Beware! This is NOT for the faint of heart though!! I have done it once and do not feel the need to do it again.  Even if you choose not to take the plunge, you will inevitably see the local kids doing it.  Be prepared to grab your camera as this is one sight you'll want to capture on film!!                                                                                             

A big attraction on the beach is the creole bed; the bed belongs to the Do Brasil restaurant, the only building that is right on the beach. After soaking up the sun for a few hours, you should stop by for a bite to eat.  This three story open-air eatery is co-owned by local St Barts legend Boubou and French tennis champion, Yanick Noah. A cozy restaurant that is tucked in to the cliff side of the beach, the cuisine is Brazilian-Carribean-Creole-French fusion food, and the decor is jungle-chic. Romantic at night and lively during lunch, this is the perfect place to grab a bite to eat.  As an added bonus, It also provides an unbeatable view of the sunset.                    Sunset :: Shell Beach

St Barts Island is a great destination for skippers from the world over. An article by local resident Ellen Lampert-Gréaux in All At Sea sums up St Barts' appeal.

Ms Lampert-Gréaux knows St Barts very well. As an American who has married a St Barts man whose family descends from the first French inhabitants of the island, she has a very good eye on St Barts.

Here, she tells us about skippers ought to expect what when calling in St Barts. Here are some titbits from her article:

The Port of Gustavia, the island’s only marina, can handle boats up to 60 meters (180’) at the dock, while larger mega-yachts anchor out in the harbor and run their guests in via tenders.
In the height of the winter season, the docks are full, as are the limited moorings in the inner harbor, so boats of all sizes anchor further out and there is a continuous flurry of dinghies zipping back and forth to the dock.
Be sure to let the port office know that you have arrived—and when moving about the harbor, remember that the maximum speed is just three knots. Skippers should also be sure not to anchor in the entry channel to the port.

It is a beautiful sight to witness some of the most beautilful yachts in the world crowding St Barts' tiny Gustavia harbor. If you want to see these boats, the best times are Christmas, New Year's Eve and April for the St Barts Bucket. I was lucky to aboard a small ship during this year's bucket. The site for the 2008 St Barts Bucket (sister to the Newport bucket) is already live.

www.en.wikipedia.org

This is the man who gave his name to the capital city of St. Barts, Gustavia.

There is no doubt that Gustavus III of Sweden was a great king in his day; he has been called an absolute monarch, because he was determined to rule without a parliament. Gustavus III also had an affection for the finer things in life.  Building marcelous palaces and chateaux during his reign.  Incidentally, he managed to bankrupt the state.

But, for all the downfalls he may have had, he also worked toward making his state a better place to live.  Criminal Justice became a bit more lenient and the death penalty was removed for many crimes; torture was absolutely abolished. He was incredibly involved in every department of business, working hard to end the corruption that had plagued the government during the age of the Hats and Caps..

It was in 1785 that Gustavus III of Sweden decided that he wanted an island in the Caribbean; likely another of his extravagances.  He exchanged the island of St Barthelemy to Louis XV against trading rights in the Swedish port of Gothenburg.  Though the island itself was sold back to France in 1878, many of the streets still bear Swedish names and the capital city, Gustavia, still honors the mighty king.

In the end, Gustavus III was assasinated during a masked ball at the Royal Opera House in Stockholm at midnight on March 16, 1792. Arriving earlier in the evening to enjoy dinner with friends, he was handed an anonymous note that threatened his life.  Due to the nature of his life, he had received numerous threats and chose to ignore it; leaving dinner on time and fully prepared to participate in the ball. 

 Soon after entering however, he was surrounded by men in black masks; Anckarström and his co-conspirators Claes Horn and Adolf Ribbing. The kind was shot in the back of the head, but not killed and he continued to serve as the head of state until his wound got infected and he died on March 29th.  Anckarström was arrested the morning immediately following the shooting, and confessed to the murder, although he denied a conspiracy until informed that Horn and Ribbing had also been arrested and had confessed in full.

Verdi's opera, The Masked Ball, is based on Gustavus' assassination.